Introduction: The Power of Representation in Beauty
As the beauty industry continues to evolve in the United States, one conversation remains at the forefront in 2025: inclusive shade ranges. Foundation—arguably the most essential product in makeup—has long reflected societal ideals of beauty, often excluding the needs of people with darker or extremely fair skin tones. But the tide has turned. In 2025, U.S. foundation brands are not only embracing diversity but are also being held publicly accountable for failing to do so.
This 2,000-word exploration looks at the impact of inclusive shade ranges in American foundation brands, how brands are innovating, the challenges they face, and why inclusivity in makeup is more than just a trend—it’s a necessary evolution driven by social awareness, consumer demand, and technological advancement.
The Historical Lack of Diversity in Foundation Shades
For decades, foundation lines in the U.S. beauty market were notoriously limited in shade variety. Most major cosmetic brands only offered a narrow range of shades—typically skewed toward light to medium tones. This left many Black, Latinx, South Asian, and Indigenous consumers with few or no options.
Common past issues included:
- No shades for deeper skin tones with cool, neutral, or red undertones.
- Poor representation in advertising campaigns.
- Ashy, grey finishes for darker skin due to poorly balanced formulations.
- Minimal or no testing on non-white consumers.
This lack of inclusivity not only excluded millions of consumers but also reinforced harmful beauty standards that favored Eurocentric ideals.
The Turning Point—Fenty Beauty and the 40+ Shade Standard
The beauty industry began to shift in 2017 when Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty launched with 40 foundation shades (now over 50). The move was hailed as revolutionary and set a new industry standard, forcing brands to expand or risk backlash.
Fenty’s impact included:
- Proving there was commercial value in inclusivity.
- Encouraging shade diversity beyond a marketing gimmick.
- Spotlighting the demand for undertone-specific foundations.
- Elevating representation in both product development and branding.
By 2025, the “Fenty Effect” has evolved into a broader movement where brands must include inclusive shades not just to stand out—but to survive.
The State of Foundation Inclusivity in 2025
In 2025, many mainstream and indie brands in the U.S. offer 40–60+ foundation shades as part of their core lineup. But inclusivity is no longer just about quantity—it’s about quality, balance, and accessibility.
Key Factors Defining Inclusivity Today:
- Balanced Range: Equal representation across fair, medium, tan, deep, and ultra-deep categories.
- Undertone Variety: Cool, warm, olive, neutral, golden, red, and blue undertones represented in each shade range.
- True-to-skin Finish: Shades that adjust to undertone rather than just pigment depth.
- Availability Across Retail Channels: From drugstores to luxury retailers.
- Diverse Marketing Campaigns: Inclusive visuals that reflect real people from varied ethnicities and skin textures.
Technology and Innovation in Shade Development
Innovation has made it easier for brands to match a wider range of skin tones with higher accuracy and consistency.
Emerging Tools Used by Brands in 2025:
- AI-Powered Shade Matching: Devices that analyze the skin’s surface and underlying tones using real-time imaging.
- Global Skin Tone Databases: Used by cosmetic chemists to formulate with data from thousands of diverse skin scans.
- Customizable Foundations: Some brands now offer personalized foundation mixing, where consumers answer a quiz or scan their skin and receive a unique formula.
- Pigment-Adaptive Formulas: Foundations that adjust slightly once applied, syncing with the wearer’s natural pH or undertone for a more natural finish.
These technological innovations are helping bridge historical gaps in product accuracy for people with non-Eurocentric features and undertones.
Leading US Brands in the Inclusivity Space
While many brands have joined the inclusivity movement, a few standout U.S. labels have become icons in this domain.
1. Fenty Beauty
Still a market leader, Fenty’s Pro Filt’r foundation remains one of the most diverse and loved ranges. Rihanna’s commitment to accessibility, visibility, and skin-specific marketing is unmatched.
2. MAC Cosmetics
With a strong history of serving artists of all skin tones, MAC continues to expand its Studio Fix line and collaborate with POC creators to fine-tune its range.
3. L’Oréal and Maybelline (Drugstore Leaders)
Affordable brands like Maybelline’s Fit Me and L’Oréal’s True Match now offer 40–50 shades and are praised for their wide retail availability.
4. UOMA Beauty
Black-owned and operated, UOMA Beauty centers inclusivity in everything from shade naming to formulation. Their Skin Kins system focuses on undertones and melanin compatibility.
5. Estée Lauder and NARS
These prestige brands have stepped up with multiple undertone options and full-spectrum marketing campaigns in both North America and globally.
Challenges to True Inclusivity
1. Retailer Bias
Not all stores carry the full range of shades—especially in deeper tones. Rural and suburban areas still show limited stock.
2. Sampling and Tester Accessibility
Testers for deeper shades are often missing or poorly maintained in stores, discouraging customers from finding their match.
3. Shade Naming Controversies
Brands are still criticized for names like “espresso,” “mocha,” or “deep 1” for darker shades, while lighter ones are named “ivory” or “porcelain”—language that can reinforce hierarchy.
4. Poor Undertone Execution
Some foundations oxidize or apply poorly on melanin-rich skin due to inadequate lab testing or inaccurate pigment formulation.
5. Exclusion of Disability and Skin Conditions
Inclusivity needs to go beyond color—accommodating textures like eczema, vitiligo, or acne-prone skin, and ensuring packaging is accessible for those with disabilities.
The Role of Dermatologists and Cosmetic Scientists
Dermatologists, especially those of color, have become vocal leaders in the beauty space. They consult with brands, help test shades, and provide medically sound advice on how foundation can support or harm different skin types.
Dermatology-Informed Innovations:
- Non-comedogenic and sensitive skin-friendly formulations.
- Anti-inflammatory ingredients (like niacinamide or green tea).
- Hydrating foundations suitable for dry or mature skin.
- SPF-infused options for deeper skin tones without a grey cast.
This intersection of medicine and beauty is helping create products that are not only inclusive in shade, but safe and supportive for all skin types.